Concrete & Masonry project by Greatness Landscaping & Construction on Long Island

Concrete and masonry done like it used to be done.

Poured concrete, block, brick and stone work — stoops, steps, footings, piers and decorative masonry done by real masons.

What this includes

Concrete and masonry are the bones of any outdoor project. We pour stoops, footings and slabs to code, lay brick and block plumb and level, and finish stone veneer with tight joints and clean lines. Every pour gets proper rebar, the right mix, and full curing time.

  • Concrete stoops, steps, slabs and footings
  • Block walls, piers and column work
  • Brick and stone veneer on stoops and chimneys
  • Repair of cracked, settled or spalling concrete
  • Decorative stamped and broom-finish concrete

How we work

  1. 1

    Forming & rebar

    We dig to firm subgrade, form straight, tie rebar on chairs, and double-check elevations before any concrete shows up.

  2. 2

    Pour & finish

    Right mix for the job, screeded, floated and finished by hand. Control joints cut before they crack on their own.

  3. 3

    Cure & seal

    Covered and kept damp through initial cure; sealed where appropriate to protect against salt and freeze-thaw.

Concrete done to spec, not to the bare minimum

Concrete is unforgiving — once it’s placed, finishing window is measured in minutes and mistakes get poured into permanent record. We pour a 4,000 PSI air-entrained mix (essential for Northeast freeze-thaw resistance) for almost all exterior flatwork, with rebar on chairs (not laid on grade), proper control joints cut before random shrinkage cracks decide for us, and a hand-troweled or broom finish to spec.

Footings for stoops, walls and piers are dug below the local frost depth (42" in Nassau County) and inspected for firm subgrade before any concrete is ordered.

Brick, block and stone masonry

Brick stoops, brick veneer chimney repairs, concrete block foundation walls and piers, stone veneer on stoops and walls — all laid by masons who do it as their primary trade, not by landscapers swinging a trowel for the first time that week.

Mortar is mixed to match the original where we’re tying into existing work, joints are tooled consistently, and weep holes are placed in veneer assemblies so trapped moisture has an exit. On historic brick repointing, we cut joints to the right depth and use a lime-rich mortar that won’t spall the original brick faces.

Concrete repair, replacement and decorative finishes

Cracked stoops, settled walkways, spalling driveway aprons, deteriorated steps — we assess whether repair is realistic or whether tear-out and repour is the better long-term value. Cosmetic cracks can be routed, sealed and resurfaced; structural cracks or significant settlement usually mean replacement.

On decorative work, we install stamped concrete in slate, ashlar slate, wood-plank and cobble patterns, integrally colored or with color hardener and release agent. Stamped concrete gets the same air-entrained mix and proper joint spacing as standard flatwork.

Concrete & Masonry — questions we hear most

Walkways and patios should be poured at 4" of concrete over 4" of compacted base. Driveways and slabs that carry vehicles get 5–6" with #4 rebar on 18" centers.

All concrete cracks; the goal is to control where. We saw-cut or tool control joints at proper spacing (roughly 2–3 times the slab thickness in feet) within 24 hours of pour so cracks form in the joints. Random cracking from skipped joints is on the installer; cracks at proper control joints are normal.

Light foot traffic at 24 hours, normal use at 7 days, full vehicle loading at 28 days. We cover and keep new pours damp through the first week to slow cure and build strength.

Usually yes for common brick — we’ll pull a sample and source a match. Older or specialty brick sometimes requires sourcing reclaimed material; we’ll tell you up front whether a clean match is realistic.

Ready for a free on-site quote?

Call or text Greatness Landscaping — most quotes scheduled within a few days.