Landscape design, then built by the people who designed it.

Long Island’s USDA zone 7a planting palette is wide, but the wrong plant in the wrong spot still fails fast. Salt spray near the bay burns broadleaf evergreens, deer pressure inland chews unprotected hydrangeas to sticks, and the heavy clay pockets through Baldwin and Rockville Centre drown root balls if drainage isn’t addressed first.

Every design we draw starts with a sun/shade audit, a soil check, and a conversation about deer, kids and pets, and how much weekend time you actually want to spend pruning. The plant list comes out of that — boxwood, inkberry, oakleaf hydrangea, drift roses, ornamental grasses, native perennials — picked because they thrive here, not because they were trending on Instagram.

Front-yard redesigns are the most common project: tearing out tired junipers and overgrown yews, regrading and edging clean curved beds, and replanting with a layered foundation scheme that frames the house instead of swallowing it. Boxwood or holly anchors, mid-height flowering shrubs, perennials and seasonal annuals at the front.

Backyards we treat as outdoor rooms. Privacy screens of arborvitae or holly, mixed perennial borders, specimen trees for shade, and beds shaped around the way you actually move through the yard from the patio to the grill to the gate. Lighting is planned at design time, not bolted on later.

Designers who don’t install lose touch with what actually works in the ground. Our designer is on site during installation, root balls are set at the right depth (high, not low — buried trunks kill more trees on Long Island than anything else), beds are amended with compost where the soil needs it, and mulched at 2–3 inches.

We hold every plant for 30 days. If something doesn’t take in that window — and assuming you watered to plan — we replace it.