Regrading, French drains, dry wells and downspout extensions to move water away from your foundation and out of your lawn.
Standing water kills grass, rots foundations and floods basements. We regrade yards to proper pitch, install French drains and dry wells, and pipe downspouts away from the house so water leaves the property the way it should.
We walk the property during or right after rain, find where water enters and where it pools, and map a drainage plan.
Trenches dug to pitch, perforated pipe wrapped in fabric, stone bedded, dry wells sized to the roof or yard area they serve.
Backfilled, topsoiled, seeded or sodded so the fix disappears into the yard.
Three causes account for almost every drainage problem we see on the South Shore: lots that were graded toward the house instead of away from it (common on older split-levels), downspouts that dump roof water within a few feet of the foundation, and high water tables in low-elevation neighborhoods near the bay that simply can’t absorb storm runoff fast enough.
Fixing drainage means identifying which of those is in play (often more than one), then choosing the right combination of regrading, surface drains, French drains and dry wells to move water off the property — not just from one wet spot to another.
A French drain is a trench filled with washed stone around a perforated pipe, wrapped in non-woven filter fabric — designed to collect groundwater along a length and carry it to daylight or a dry well. Effective for chronically wet lawn areas, against retaining walls, and along the uphill side of a foundation.
Dry wells are sized to the roof area or yard area they serve — a typical 1,500 sq ft roof needs roughly 200–300 cubic feet of dry well capacity for a 1-inch rainfall. We pipe downspouts underground in solid PVC out to the dry well, set under a layer of stone and fabric, with an inspection riser at the top.
Where the underlying problem is grade, no amount of subsurface drain will solve it cleanly. We regrade the affected area to a minimum 1% slope (1 foot drop per 100 feet) away from the house, fill low spots with screened topsoil, and re-sod or slice-seed so the fix disappears.
After any drainage work, we always restore turf, mulch beds and any disturbed hardscape — you shouldn’t be able to tell where we dug a week after the lawn fills back in.
Weekly mowing, edging, fertilization and seasonal cleanups that keep Long Island lawns dark green from April to November.
Read about Lawn Care & MaintenancePavers, walkways, patios, retaining walls and outdoor steps engineered to stay flat through Long Island freeze-thaw winters.
Read about HardscapingFresh sod laid on properly prepped soil, or slice-seeded lawns for thin and patchy turf — full guarantee on rooted sod.
Read about Sod Installation & Grass SeedingCall or text Greatness Landscaping — most quotes scheduled within a few days.